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Accueil du site → Doctorat → Royaume-Uni → 2007 → Weaving social life, Moroccan rural textiles, people, and changing values

University of Oxford (2007)

Weaving social life, Moroccan rural textiles, people, and changing values

Ali de Unzaga, M.

Titre : Weaving social life, Moroccan rural textiles, people, and changing values

Auteur : Ali de Unzaga, M. 

Université de soutenance  : University of Oxford

Grade : Doctor of Philosophy (PhD) 2007

This thesis explores the social significance of Moroccan rural textiles � particularly furnishing textiles and carpets � across time and space. Its premise is that studying the connections between people and those textiles allows us to grasp aspects of social interactions which otherwise would remain overlooked. The data presented were collected during fieldwork on Morocco and Europe � especially in Austria � among textile collectors, Moroccan and Western museums, Moroccan official organisations, Berber activists, rural textile traders, and the inhabitants and weavers of Tufstalt, a Beni Mguild village in the Middle Atlas Mountains of Morocco. This thesis highlights the fact that the visual appreciation of textiles is merely one of the factors to be taken into account, and that a more encompassing concept is needed in order to understand the importance of Moroccan rural textiles in the lives of those who come into contact with them. Theoretical approaches proposing that objects can have human-like properties, such as �social lives� or �agency�, are discussed and challenged. Instead, the notion of value � conceived here to include human actions and the objects involved in them � is taken as an analytical tool to explore what links people to rural textiles. Each chapter consists of an ethnographic account including data from fieldwork and discussions of relevant anthropological literature. Chapter One focuses on Western textile collectors and their collections. By analyzing the ways collectors value, recreate, and represent rural textiles, we can see how they impose their own interpretations on the Moroccan weavers and their communities. Chapter Two discusses the production of an official �carpet discourse� by colonial administrations in Morocco and explores the origins of colonial museum carpet collections, the policies and values that informed their acquisition, and their uses in display, design, manufacture and consumption. The reception of this carpet discourse in independent Morocco is examined in Chapter Three. Chapter Four argues that local trade should be observed in order to understand that the commoditization of these textiles is an inherent part of local and global contexts. By investigating contemporary textile traders in the Beni Mguild region, the mechanisms by which traders and customers exchange information about their own socio-cultural values are revealed. The historical and ethnographic background of the Beni Mguild forms the backbone of Chapter Five � which focussing on the village of Tufstalt, discusses salient themes of anthropology about rural Morocco. These notions are further explored in Chapter Six, which deals with the weavers of Tufstalt. Since weaving is a non-verbal practice, rather than using external Western typologies to guide this enquiry, Chapter Six turns to the weavers themselves. This chapter provides the first detailed ethnographic account of the weaving process in rural Morocco.

Présentation (ProQuest)

Page publiée le 10 juin 2021