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Universidade do Minho (2020)

Production and Validation of Opuntia ficus-indica derived cosmeceuticals

Cunha, Marta Fernandez da

Titre : Production and Validation of Opuntia ficus-indica derived cosmeceuticals

Produção e validação de cosmecêuticos derivados de Opuntia ficusinidica

Auteur : Cunha, Marta Fernandez da

Université de soutenance : Universidade do Minho

Grade : Mestrado em Biologia Molecular, Biotecnologia e Bioempreendedorismo em Plantas 2020

Résumé
Currently, in the cosmetics market has been a crescent demand for ingredients with bioactive effects such as antioxidants, anti-ageing and UV protectors, preferably from non-synthetic sources, such as plant extracts. Opuntia ficus-indica is a native species from Mexico existing widespread in almost all regions of the world, including Portugal. Belonging to Cactaceae family possess high adaptability to habit arid climes. Traditionally it is associated as a source of nutrition providing fruits, cladodes and flowers for human consumption. Nevertheless, a high amount of cladodes are used as forage or disposed in landfills. Furthermore, the pharmacological properties of cladodes have been studied due to their antidiabetic, wound healing, and anti-inflammatory properties. Acknowledging their pharmacological potentialities, an Opuntia ficus-indica cladodes hydroalcoholic extract was evaluated on the phenolic content, in vitro antoxidant activity, antimicrobial activity and cytotoxic effect of in order to develop a cosmeceutical. HPLC-DAD analysis of cladodes hydroalcoholic extract revealed a high content of glycosides derivates of quercetin. The cladodes extract showed an antioxidant activity with a significant reduction of radical ABTS (EC50 of 0.23 mg.ml-1). The cytotoxic effect of cladodes extract was evaluated in fibroblast cell line L929. This extract did not show cytotoxicity in the concentration range of 0.05 to 1 mg.ml-1. Further ahead, a cosmeceutical containing cladodes extract was developed. This cosmeceutical was submitted to in vivo evaluation on the skin of volunteers with the non-invasive probes Corneometer®, Tewameter® and Mexameter®, which measures the hydration, transepidermal water loss and erythema, respectively. The cosmeceutical demonstrated a moisturizing effect with the increasing of hydration values for 3 hours and 6 hours, and not showed an allergenic effect

Mots clés  : Antioxidant Cladodes Cosmeceutical Extract Phenolics Antioxidante Cladódios Cosmecêutico Extrato Fenólicos

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